American Pest Guide
Close-up photograph of a mouse
All Pests

Rodents

Mus musculus / Rattus norvegicus

Rodents chew electrical wiring and can cause house fires. If you hear scratching in walls or find droppings, act fast.

high riskPeak: Fall and winter$150 - $600

Mice and rats are among the most destructive pests that can invade a home. Beyond contaminating food and spreading disease, rodents gnaw on electrical wiring — a documented cause of house fires. The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) estimates that rodent-damaged wiring is responsible for thousands of structural fires each year in the United States.

The two most common residential rodent species are the house mouse (Mus musculus) and the Norway rat (Rattus norvegicus). House mice are small (2-4 inches body length), gray-brown, and incredibly agile — they can squeeze through gaps as small as 1/4 inch, roughly the diameter of a pencil. Norway rats are much larger (7-10 inches body length), brown, and prefer ground-level or below-ground habitation like basements and crawl spaces. Roof rats (Rattus rattus), more common in coastal and southern states, are slender, excellent climbers, and typically infest attics and upper floors.

Rodent reproduction is alarming. A single pair of mice can produce 5-10 litters per year with 6-8 pups each. In theory, a pair of mice can give rise to thousands of descendants in a single year if left unchecked. This is why early detection and swift action are critical.

Rodents carry and transmit over 35 diseases, including hantavirus (spread through droppings and urine), salmonella (through food contamination), leptospirosis, and lymphocytic choriomeningitis (LCM). Their droppings, urine, and nesting materials can contaminate insulation, ductwork, and stored items.

Effective rodent control requires a two-part approach: elimination (trapping or baiting to remove the existing population) and exclusion (sealing all entry points to prevent re-entry). Simply trapping mice without sealing gaps is a temporary fix — new rodents will enter through the same openings. Professional exclusion services inspect the entire building envelope and seal every gap larger than 1/4 inch with steel wool, hardware cloth, or expanding foam.

Signs of Infestation

1Droppings near food sources or along walls
2Gnaw marks on food packaging, wires, or wood
3Scratching or scurrying noises in walls or attic
4Nests made of shredded paper or fabric
5Grease marks along baseboards and walls
6Urine odor in enclosed spaces

Prevention Tips

Seal gaps larger than 1/4 inch around the exterior
Store food in metal or glass containers
Keep garbage in tightly sealed bins
Trim vegetation away from the foundation
Remove bird feeders or use rodent-proof designs
Store firewood away from the house

Treatment Options

Snap traps

$2 - $10 per trap

Classic spring-loaded traps placed along walls and in areas of rodent activity. Quick, humane kill method.

High for small populations when properly placedDIY friendly

Professional exclusion services

$300 - $600+

Technicians inspect the entire building and seal all entry points with steel wool, hardware cloth, or caulk. Includes trapping.

Very high — addresses root cause of re-entryProfessional recommended

Exterior bait stations

$200 - $400 for professional setup

Tamper-resistant stations with rodenticide placed around the building perimeter. For outdoor use only to avoid interior die-offs.

High — reduces exterior population approaching the homeProfessional only (rodenticide regulations)

Electronic traps

$25 - $50 per trap

Battery-powered traps that deliver a quick electric shock. Easy to use and no need to handle dead rodents directly.

High — one kill per charge, reusableDIY friendly

Live catch traps

$10 - $30 per trap

Humane traps that capture rodents alive for release. Must check daily and release at least 2 miles from the home.

Moderate — does not reduce local population permanentlyDIY friendly

Quick Facts

Danger Level
high
Peak Season
Fall and winter
Average Cost
$150 - $600
Scientific Name
Mus musculus / Rattus norvegicus

Expert Reviewed

American Pest Guide Editorial Team

Licensed Pest Control Professionals & Entomology Consultants

Our content is researched and reviewed by licensed pest management professionals with field experience across all 50 states. Treatment recommendations follow EPA guidelines and Integrated Pest Management (IPM) best practices.

Close-up photograph of a mouse

RodentsMus musculus / Rattus norvegicus

Need Help Now?

If DIY treatments are not working or the rodents problem is spreading, call a licensed pest control professional. Most offer inspections and prompt service.

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Frequently Asked Questions About Rodents

How do mice get into my house?

Mice can squeeze through gaps as small as 1/4 inch — about the width of a pencil. Common entry points include gaps around pipes, utility line entries, garage door seals, and cracks in the foundation. A thorough inspection of your home exterior is the first step in any rodent control plan.

Are rodents dangerous?

Yes. Mice and rats carry diseases including hantavirus, salmonella, and leptospirosis. They also chew electrical wiring, which is a documented fire hazard — the NFPA estimates rodent-damaged wiring causes thousands of house fires annually.

Should I use poison or traps for mice?

Snap traps are generally recommended for indoor use. Rodent poison (rodenticide) should only be used outdoors in tamper-resistant bait stations because poisoned mice can die inside walls, creating odor and sanitation issues. Poison also poses risks to children, pets, and wildlife.

How do I know if I have mice or rats?

Mouse droppings are small (1/4 inch, rice-shaped). Rat droppings are larger (1/2–3/4 inch, capsule-shaped). Mice leave greasy rub marks along baseboards. Rats gnaw larger holes and leave more obvious grease trails. Norway rats prefer basements; roof rats prefer attics.